Archive for the 'food' Category

2 Dudes Catering

November 10, 2007

[Originally appeared in YRB, Winter 2008]

On North Fairfax Avenue, in Los Angeles, a couple doors from Cantor’s, sits a nondescript storefront that suggests an establishment hovering somewhere between a low profile and being out of business. I’m summoned here on a sunny morning in early September to interview two rising young chefs, Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo. The two-man team is currently being positioned via the Food Network as Food Dudes [and, ultimately, 2 Dudes Catering], a snicker-inducing brand that suggests irreverence, easy cleverness and a whiff of stoner aesthetics. The moniker the chefs share informs the name of their television show, which is being carried this fall by Food Network. The docu-drama follows the upward spiral of two hip, clever, talented chefs as as they make a name for themselves in Los Angeles cuisine though their catering and consulting business (already established and thriving) and their new restaurant (low-profile and not yet in business). Of course, it’s also about a couple of slackers who, as Shook puts it, “got into being chefs so we could sleep late, stay up late and party.” Watching these guys succeed, watching them fail and, most importantly, watching the balance of the two ever-present eventualities is the show’s infectious hook. Because who doesn’t want to watch two cool, creative, chance-taking talents served up in a weekly dose of will they or won’t they blow it?

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Sang Yoon, Father’s Office

July 1, 2007

[Originally appeared in YRB, Summer 2007]

“The question was, ‘Why don’t we have great bar culture in LA?’” Sang Yoon, chef and owner behind the Santa Monica uber-pub Father’s Office tells me as he takes instructions from a photographer in front of his bar. Father’s Office offers a variety of tapas-informed delights that take bar food to places you’d like to see it go (but rarely do) at the hands of a gourmet chef; most notable is the Father’s Office burger, widely considered to be the best in the country. “Why can’t we eat something decent in a bar? There’s this segregation,” he continues. “If you go to a bar to drink, and you want to eat, it’s going to be something crappy: wings, nachos, shit. And if you want good food, you have to go to a fine-dining restaurant and spend a lot of money. There’s nothing in between,” he tells me with a bit of the annoyed tone the chef reserves for talking about fine dining culture. “But in Europe, there is. It’s not that it’s never been done, it’s just that, culturally, it’s not what we do here. So I thought, ‘You know what, I’m going to try it.‘”

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Jamie Thinnes, Seasons

March 14, 2002

“It’s a beautiful day at Seasons,” Randy Mello says, answering the telephone. It’s the type of thing you want to imagine someone saying every time he picks up the telephone, but you have a hard time believing it. I make a mental note to call back again to see if he says it every time.

It does sound like things are looking up at Seasons. “I cannot wait to meet Sumo,” Mello tells me, referring to the newest addition to the Seasons roster. “The music is incredible. It’s just off the hook. They’re from Sweden—we put their flag in [the album’s visual design]—the thing’s called Sumo Workout,” notes Mello with a grin. “Sumo wrestlers with the Swedish flag; I mean, are you kidding me?!” It is this kind of idiosyncratic synthesis that draws Randy Mello to his work. He free-associates for effect: “Integrated sound/cloth stations,” he offers, oblivious to my inability to get a handle on the concept. “When you roll up to a Seasons station you get a killer pair of headphones with like five CDs in it. You put on the headphones and you’re listening to the music, and at the same time you’re on the hangers peepin’ the clothes.”

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